Stereo Overhaul!

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  • Stereo Overhaul!

    Hi all!
    I've been researching and planning for a few weeks now and thought it is about time I shared where I was up to in case anyone has any interest, input or advice.

    I was going to get installed by a shop but wasn't happy with what any of them quoted me so decided I'll probably give it a shot myself.

    I'm planning to keep the original hu (not ideal) but will cost a fortune for me to get connects2 here and IMO isn't a clean finish. I guess I'll just have to sacrifice a bit of SQ...

    So the current thinking is (everything in AUD):
    LOC- lc2i $110

    Sub - ALPINE SWR-12D4 1000wrms@2ohm $220
    TN1.1200D 1050wrms@2ohms $266.85
    enclosure < $100 (hopefully)

    6.5" - Polk MM6501 6.5" 125wrms@2.7ohm $330
    Amp2 - JVC KS-AX5102 150wrms@2ohms $150

    wiring & deadening ~ $200

    I know the amps are not the best brands but the only way I can fit it in the budget. Interested if anyone has had any experience with them.

    I still need to investigate how to wire into the front doors and feed up to tweeters (noticed they do just pop out which is great). At this point I will probably reluctantly use the standard speaker wire into the doors from the crossover as I can't find a good way into the door. I also need to find the tweeter wiring connection point.

    I will need to modify the speaker bracket as they're pretty shallow. I'm probably planning to drill out the pop rivets to take it out, cut off the backing and pop rivet back in. So not quite there but definitely at the pointy end!


    Would love if anyone has any input!

    Chris

  • #2
    Hi...my husband upgraded all my audio last year and have done a build thread so it might give you an idea of what u need to do if u do decide to do this yourself..link below

    http://www.ds3gboc.com/forum/forum/d...peaker-upgrade

    Ive not bothered with the tweeters tho so not sure on that part how to upgrade.

    I will be updating my build thread shortly as ive recently bought JL Audio speakers for the doors and rears so currently just in the process of swapping the vibes for the JL....but the 'how to' is still the same.
    1.6 THP150 Black with Blue Matte Metallic Roof, Spoiler, Mirrors and Baguettes. Forge Engine Modifications. Full Milltek Sports Exhaust and High Flow Cat.

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    • #3
      Originally posted by Clairt83 View Post
      Hi...my husband upgraded all my audio last year and have done a build thread so it might give you an idea of what u need to do if u do decide to do this yourself..link below

      http://www.ds3gboc.com/forum/forum/d...peaker-upgrade

      Ive not bothered with the tweeters tho so not sure on that part how to upgrade.

      I will be updating my build thread shortly as ive recently bought JL Audio speakers for the doors and rears so currently just in the process of swapping the vibes for the JL....but the 'how to' is still the same.
      wow it seems I wasnt appropriately subscribed to my own thread! haha

      Thanks so much for the response! I just looked up your build thread now and it is helpful seeing that you used self tapping screws for the speaker bracket. Do you think it would be possible to use pop rivets to refit or is drilling the only real option once you get the rivets out?

      I read you kept the standard wiring for your Vibes, did you keep the same for your JLs? My Polks are 125wrms ea so would prefer to run new wires but looks like i'll just be running standard due to difficulty getting into the doors!

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      • #4
        Its ur choice u can rivet it back if u want but we found that self tapping screws worked fine.

        Yeah we have used the standard wiring for the speakers as trying to change it just seems a pain to do tbh.


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        1.6 THP150 Black with Blue Matte Metallic Roof, Spoiler, Mirrors and Baguettes. Forge Engine Modifications. Full Milltek Sports Exhaust and High Flow Cat.

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        • #5
          Looks like you have a good combo of speakers/amp and sub/amp. Too often people buy powerful subs but don't get a powerful amp to drive those subs which then it doesn't get the best sound out of the subs etc.

          Not sure what sound deadening you are going to use but I used 6 sheets of dynamat on Clairt83's car.

          Keep us updated with progress on your build with pics too.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by Clairt83
            Its ur choice u can rivet it back if u want but we found that self tapping screws worked fine.

            Yeah we have used the standard wiring for the speakers as trying to change it just seems a pain to do tbh.


            Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
            Cheers. I'll have a look once I get it out.

            Yeah think I've given up trying to get new wires in.

            Are your speakers amped? Trying to see if I can intercept the wires somewhere else to feed into my crossovers rather then run wire all the way back to the head unit to feed back out.

            Originally posted by SteveP
            Looks like you have a good combo of speakers/amp and sub/amp. Too often people buy powerful subs but don't get a powerful amp to drive those subs which then it doesn't get the best sound out of the subs etc.

            Not sure what sound deadening you are going to use but I used 6 sheets of dynamat on Clairt83's car.

            Keep us updated with progress on your build with pics too.
            Cheers! I thought if I'm going to do it I'm going to do it right!

            I am planning to use a different brand that is cheaper in aus but has had good response from people that have used it. Very similar to dynamat (non tar etc).

            What size are the dynamat sheets you used? From memory they come in a couple diff sizes depending on the pack you get.

            I plan to take a few snaps along the way to help others out like you guys have for me!

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            • #7
              Only my subs are amped...we left the speakers as they were...the JL coaxial speakers are really bassy so think they are loud enough tbh.

              The dynamat size we used was 45cm x 81cm.

              Looking forward to seeing your install :-)


              Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
              1.6 THP150 Black with Blue Matte Metallic Roof, Spoiler, Mirrors and Baguettes. Forge Engine Modifications. Full Milltek Sports Exhaust and High Flow Cat.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by Clairt83
                Only my subs are amped...we left the speakers as they were...the JL coaxial speakers are really bassy so think they are loud enough tbh.

                The dynamat size we used was 45cm x 81cm.

                Looking forward to seeing your install :-)


                Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
                The Polks run 125wrms and have beautiful bass and mids as well for a nice rich sound so thought they would be wasted without amping them. Not to mention thsy have to compete with a 1000wrms sub! Haha Can't wait to hear what they sound like inside the ds3!

                I ordered 2.88m2 of sound deadener last night so should be plenty. I plan to cover the access holes in the front doors as I have heard it makes a big diff. But might stage it and see how it sounds.

                Should get a start on it this weekend, but may not be able to get it finished off for a couple of weeks. I will grab plenty of pics though

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                • #9
                  Haha yeah you might be better off amping your speakers...my subs are 300wrms each and the door speakers are 60wrms so im like at half what you got lol

                  Yeah stage the deadening and let me know what you think if you cover access holes etc as it might be something i do if you think it makes a big difference.

                  Looking forward to seeing your build...its nice to chat to someone doing similar mods :-)


                  Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
                  1.6 THP150 Black with Blue Matte Metallic Roof, Spoiler, Mirrors and Baguettes. Forge Engine Modifications. Full Milltek Sports Exhaust and High Flow Cat.

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                  • #10
                    When I had my sub setup in my DS3 I managed to blow my two front tweeters, they are easy to replace. If you get a paperclip and bend it like a hook, you can basically pull the speaker up out of the dash and then uplug the connector. You can then replace them with upgraded ones if you wish Although I no longer have my DS3 Im planning a audio build in my new car (add subs, audio processor ect) so I check back now and then to check up Clairs build and will check this one too now Would post up my build thread but im sure a Seat Leon might look out of place on a DS3 forum

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Tommy95 View Post
                      When I had my sub setup in my DS3 I managed to blow my two front tweeters, they are easy to replace. If you get a paperclip and bend it like a hook, you can basically pull the speaker up out of the dash and then uplug the connector. You can then replace them with upgraded ones if you wish Although I no longer have my DS3 Im planning a audio build in my new car (add subs, audio processor ect) so I check back now and then to check up Clairs build and will check this one too now Would post up my build thread but im sure a Seat Leon might look out of place on a DS3 forum
                      How did you connect the new tweeter in the dash? I have figured out how to pop off the cover and twist out the original tweeter just deciding how to fix my new ones now.

                      I was thinking just putting a little bit of silicone around the edge of the new tweeter housing connecting it to the face plate. How did you fix yours?

                      Are you going to post your new build thread elsewhere? I'd be keen to have a look if you drop a link once you're done. What parts are you going with?

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Clairt83 View Post
                        Haha yeah you might be better off amping your speakers...my subs are 300wrms each and the door speakers are 60wrms so im like at half what you got lol

                        Yeah stage the deadening and let me know what you think if you cover access holes etc as it might be something i do if you think it makes a big difference.

                        Looking forward to seeing your build...its nice to chat to someone doing similar mods :-)


                        Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

                        Do you feel that even the 60wrms is wasted running without an amp? I doubt the standard head would power anything near that power...

                        How did you fit the tweets when you had your vibes in? As mentioned above, I'm thinking of just using a little bit of silicone connecting the tweet bracket to the underside of the existing tweet grills in the dash. What do you think?

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                        • #13
                          The JL speakers i got are suited to this head unit as it says they can be powered between 15-100wrms and the head unit is 35w output as far as i know. Honestly if you could hear it as it is now its mental...im really not bothered about making it any louder lol

                          I never upgraded the tweeters i just left the standard ones in. I cant see any probs with using a bit of silicone to fix the new tweeters in, give it a go, and see what its like.


                          Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
                          1.6 THP150 Black with Blue Matte Metallic Roof, Spoiler, Mirrors and Baguettes. Forge Engine Modifications. Full Milltek Sports Exhaust and High Flow Cat.

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Clairt83 View Post
                            The JL speakers i got are suited to this head unit as it says they can be powered between 15-100wrms and the head unit is 35w output as far as i know. Honestly if you could hear it as it is now its mental...im really not bothered about making it any louder lol

                            I never upgraded the tweeters i just left the standard ones in. I cant see any probs with using a bit of silicone to fix the new tweeters in, give it a go, and see what its like.


                            Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

                            Cheers.

                            You're right, tbh the standard speakers are pretty good / loud it's mostly the range that makes them struggle. I am known for overkill once I actually decide to do something haha

                            Picked up some silicone and also some velcro to fix down my amps last night. Hopefully it's not raining over the weekend so I can get stuck in to finishing it off! I can't wait to hear it!

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                            • #15
                              Fingers crossed for good weather for you...let us know how you get on and plenty of pics or even a vid :-)


                              Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
                              1.6 THP150 Black with Blue Matte Metallic Roof, Spoiler, Mirrors and Baguettes. Forge Engine Modifications. Full Milltek Sports Exhaust and High Flow Cat.

                              Comment

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